16th February 2007  Lake Nakuru to Lake Naivasha

It is not too often you get a tick at the breakfast table so a Cliff Chat actually inside the restaurant building was more than welcome. The whole of the morning was taken up with a full circuit of Lake Nakuru. Mammals featured highly with good views of both Black and White Rhino, Common Zebra, Impala, Water Buck, Eland, Warthog and Cape Buffalo. However, the highlight was undoubtedly one of the great bird spectacles of the world, upwards of a quarter of a million Lesser Flamingos.

In between marveling at all the flamingos, we did find time to spot a few other birds such as Gull-billed and Whiskered Tern, Grey-headed Gull, Grey-backed Fiscal, Grey-crested Helmet-shrike, Didric Cuckoo, Spotted Eagle, Verreaux's Eagle Owl, Arrow-marked Babbler and Bearded Woodpecker. After lunch back at Lion Hill Lodge, we set off along the Highway from Hell, otherwise known as the A104 from Nakuru to Lake Naivasha. We have all travelled extensively but none of us could recall encountering such an awful, dusty, pot holed main road during our travels. Anyway, three overturned lorries later we finally arrived at the rather plush Lake Naivasha Sopa Lodge.

After a short rest we were back out again, this time off to Hell's Gate National Park, some 7km down the road. As dusk approached hundreds of Mottled and Nyanza Swifts gathered around the very impressive cliff faces, along with a pair of Lanner Falcons and several Rüppell's Griffon Vultures. On the way out we had great views of a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls, which we managed to spotlight close to the track. We also had brief views of a nightjar species but as with Nairobi National Park, the views were inconclusive.

Despite having forewarned the Rangers upon entering the park at 17:30 that we would be staying late for owls and nightjars, upon leaving the park some 2 hours later we encountered an annoying delay whilst Edwin argued with two over-officious National Park guards who gave us a rather hard time for staying past the park opening times. Finally, just outside the park entrance a Golden-backed Jackal put in a brief appearance in the van headlights.

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